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Fashion & Dress · 1800–1860s · Paris, France

The Reticule

The first handbag, c. 1800–1860s

The Reticule
LACMA Image Library (French reticule, 1810–1820), public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
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The reticule was born of a wardrobe crisis. When the slim, high-waisted dresses of the Regency made sewn-in pockets impossible, women needed somewhere to put their things — and the answer was a small bag carried in the hand or on the wrist. Its name came from the Latin reticulum, 'little net', because the earliest reticules were netted. This French example, from 1810–1820, shows how quickly the humble net became a luxury object: silk knit worked with glass beads, a metal-hinged clasp, and a metal chain.

Inside went the essentials of a lady's day: coins, smelling salts, a fan, a handkerchief, perhaps a dance card. Gentlemen found the whole thing hilarious and rechristened it the 'ridicule' — a pun the bag never quite shook. But the reticule persisted, evolving from net to silk to velvet to beadwork, and it carried on well into the Victorian era as the evening bag, long after day dresses had regained their pockets.

Every modern handbag descends from it. The reticule established the principle that a woman's bag could be a decorative object in its own right — small, beautiful, and carried visibly — and the evening clutch is its direct heir, two centuries on.

Frequently asked

What did women carry before handbags?

Pockets sewn into their skirts — until slim Regency dresses made pockets impossible, and the small hand-carried reticule replaced them around 1800.

Why was it called a reticule?

From the Latin reticulum, 'little net' — the earliest reticules were netted bags. Wits promptly punned it into the 'ridicule'.

What did a Victorian lady keep in her reticule?

Coins, smelling salts, a fan, a handkerchief — the small essentials of a day (or an evening) out.

Why it matters today

The evening clutch is the reticule's direct heir — a small decorative bag for essentials, carried visibly in the hand.

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